Hyper-pigmentation affects more than 90% of adults over the age of 50 and is also a growing concern for younger people. Caused by the overproduction of melanin in specific areas of the skin, age, genetics, hormonal imbalances, and sun damage are some of the factors which can play a part.
Any skin tone can be affected, and hyperpigmentation can cause a negative self-image, making the person affected feel unattractive or prematurely aged.
The Cosmelan deep depigmentation treatment is a process that uses multiple ingredients applied to the skin in the form of masks and creams to correct or reduce areas of hyperpigmentation and skin discolouration. It is safe for all skin tones and can produce a subtle improvement or dramatic results depending on how the skin responds to the treatment, and the diligence of the client.
In this blog, we’ll explain what the process of Cosmelan involves, touch on a little bit of the history of the procedure, and outline the benefits and drawbacks of the treatment.
The Cosmelan pack was launched in 2002 by the world-leading aesthetic company Mesoestetic. Cosmelan was a reformulation of one of the company’s successful products, creating a product that would only require one treatment in a clinic and could then be administered by the client themselves at home over a period of months.
Today, thousands of professionals all over the world use Cosmelan to treats pigmentation problems such as melasma, spots, and areas of discolouration. More than one million clients have experienced a Cosmelan treatment.
STAGE 1 – Your clinician will cleanse your face to remove any makeup and excess oil. ‘Before’ photos may then be taken, with your prior consent. The first treatment is then applied as a cool mask in a thick layer. You will be asked not to talk too much, or touch your face, so glasses wearers should use contact lenses. Your clinician will provide you with a home kit containing everything you need for the next three stages.
You will then go home and leave the mask between 8-10 hours, following the clinician’s specific instructions. You should remain awake to ensure none of the mask runs off, but not exert yourself. As it dries, some of the masks may flake off, so it’s best to avoid light coloured or expensive clothes and furniture.
Clients report an increasing warming sensation as the mask gets to work, but it shouldn’t be painful. When you remove the mask either with cool (not cold) water, or a solution provided in your homecare kit, you may experience more intense heat, akin to sunburn.
You should apply the hydration mask provided, which may cause your skin to tingle. Wait until your skin has absorbed the hydration mask then apply calm repair. In the hours following, your skin may be red, swollen, and/itchy and peeling may begin.
STAGE 2 – Between 48-72 hours after you have removed the mask, the second phase begins. This involves the three times daily application of Cosmelan 2, along with melan recovery and melan 130+ pigment control during the day. As described above, this phase can be a little uncomfortable, for most clients but you must keep going to have the best chance of achieving the desired results. You will also start to see more visible results as your pigmentation spots fade and dead skin peels and flakes off.
STAGE 3 – In stage three, you only need to apply the creams once in the morning and apply just the Cosmelan 2 again before you go to bed. Your skin should start to look noticeably brighter with imperfections visibly reduced.
STAGE 4 – Here, you apply the Cosmelan 2 and then the melan recovery at night, and apply the melan 130+ pigment control during the day. By now your skin should have rehydrated and be looking even with a glow. Continue with the regime as directed and avoid direct sun exposure for the best results.
The combination of chemicals in the Cosmelan 1 treatment stimulates the first layers of the skin, removing the deposits of melanin, superficially fading the pigmentation and improving the overall texture and appearance of your skin.
The Cosmelan 2 homecare kit reaches deep down into the melanocyte where the melanin is produced, controlling its production to prevent further hyperpigmentation from occurring.
Although it is most often applied as a face mask, Cosmelan can be used to treat other areas of the body where hyper-pigmentation occurs, such as the hands, and the décolletage.
No, the nature of Cosmelan means it is not suitable to combine with any other depigmentation treatments. Also, you should not undergo any other cosmetic treatments before or soon after your Cosmelan treatment. Please read the section on aftercare for more information.
The Cosmelan 1 treatment takes around only half-hour for the mask to be applied and left to dry.
However, during treatment, your clinician will take time to explain the homecare process so that you are confident to follow the home care routine which is very important. A home care routine leaflet will also be provided. As described above, the whole process takes a couple of months from the initial treatment session.

Since the Cosmelan 1 treatment does not involve injections or incisions, it is not usually considered to be painful. Many clients report that the initial treatment session is relaxing, as the Cosmelan 1 mask feels cool and is applied to the face in a thick layer.
It is often the home regime that some clients may find morethe most difficultchallenging to manage uncomfortable or painful. This is because Cosmelan 2 can make skin feel tight, dry, sensitive, and irritable. You may also feel a burning sensation like sunburn and feel generally hot and uncomfortable. You should follow the directions provided by your clinician precisely to relieve these symptoms while optimising the treatment.
How dramatic the results are will vary depending on the darkness of the pigmentation, the overall condition of the skin, and the diligence of the client in continuing to apply the Cosmelan 2 at home. It is important to set realistic goals. However, Cosmelan provides both a short-term improvement and a long-term preventative measure to the problem of hyper-pigmentation. Results start to appear within a few days but are usually most visible from around 3-6 weeks after treatment. Depending on your skin type and prolonged use of the Cosmelan 2 cream, results can last years and might even be permanent.
Although Cosmelan is a safe treatment, when administered by a trained professional, there are some side effects that can affect clients.
Cosmelan can be used safely on most skin tones, but adverse reactions can include redness, prolonged sensitivity to the sun, peeling, scabbing, cold sores, and as with most aesthetic treatments, there is a small risk of infection.
Your skin may feel dry, itchy and sore for up to four weeks after treatment, but you can relieve these sensations by following the directions in your home kit.
Cosmelan treatments differ from many other aesthetic treatments in that much of the ‘work’ is done at home. As such, there are certain dos and don’ts you should adhere to before, during, and after the treatment, to ensure you achieve the optimal results. It is, therefore, advisable to take a week off work.
We hope this blog has given you a bit of insight into what Cosmelan treatment entails, but if you would like to discuss Cosmelan or any other aesthetic treatment, please don’t hesitate to book online for a free consultation with one of our experienced aestheticians, or call 020 8286 8858 to speak with a member of our team.
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